Category: Wheated Whiskey

Hannah’s Horse Soldier Reserve Review

Original review written September 12, 2022

GENERAL DESCRIPTION:

An emotional story for bourbon, I don’t think Horse Soldier forfeited the craft and quality a drink of this stature demanded. This exceeded my personal expectations without a doubt. 93/100

VITALS:

– Made In: St. Petersburg, Florida, USA
– Distiller: American Freedom Distillery
Distilled by and stored in Ohio at Middle West Spirits
– Classification: Wheated Bourbon
– Age: nas
– Mash Bill: Corn=70%; Soft red winter wheat=20%; Malted barley=10%
– Casks: unpublished char
– Barrel Entry Proof: unpublished
– ABV: 61% (122 proof)
– Price: $65.85 USD in Montana 2022

“Immediately following the [9/11] attacks on our nation, the USA responded with a daring insertion of small teams of Green Berets into northern Afghanistan. The Northern Alliance successfully overthrew Masar-i-Sharif, a Taliban stronghold, with the support of these brave men. This region’s inhospitable, mountainous terrain made efforts and enemy engagements on wild Afghan horses a necessity for the Special Operations team (ODA595). Nicknamed the “Horse Soldiers”, all these brave men are honored today by American’s Response Monument overlooking ‘Ground Zero’ in New York City. [In addition], our bottles … are molded with World Trade Center steel.” – American Freedom Distillery

Visit horsesoldierbourbon.com for more information

ENJOYMENT METHOD:

I enjoyed the spirit neat from a Glencairn glass with sister and reviewer, Elora, as well as father and fellow Whiskey for the Ages editor, Brian.

Check out Elora’s thoughts here and Brian’s here!

SETTING:

This bourbon calls for rusticity; there’s a desire to walk onto a patch of farmed earth and break off a stalk of wheat – the bloom of America’s dinner table. Pair it with a homemade apple pie with chunky, ungraceful pie crust designs (it’s made with love and butter), and the Horse’s Soldier is finally able to dismount. Time to come home.

Photo by Priscilla Du Preez on Unsplash

NOSE:

Burnt wheat, dark caramel and candied apples all but attack the nose even on the first inhale, remaining surprisingly distinct from one another despite these flavors being quite bold, even on their own. Regardless of the bold, subtle notes can be found underneath with only a little coaxing, such as a faint vanilla, mixed together with a fresh herb rosemary as well as light vanilla and yeast.

There is a dark fruit here as well, like plum, but it comes in such a heavily reduced form, it’s almost become a syrup. It’s hard to tell if this plum is burnt, and if it’s not, then it is certainly close to that point. It’s as though it’s meant to be painted within the confines of pastry, but bitterness of the near-burnt quality prevents it from seeming too indulgent.

I can’t find too much oak on the nose, but with the assortment of the other aromas, I’m not too bothered. A surprising gentle alcohol burn makes these flavors both approachable and discoverable.

PALATE:

– Mouth Feel: Heavy and oily. It sinks into the palate in a way that both grips the taste buds while simultaneously feeling slippery.
– Balance: Excellent. I can detect grain, sugars, fruits and alcohol heat in each sip in equal proportion.
– Visual: Flame in color, this leaves behind a thick ring with droplets clinging just under the rim.

– Taste: For being 122 proof, it’s a bourbon that I can hold in my mouth for a significantly long time before I feel pressured to move it around. When I do, caramel-esque candies – from the hard butterscotch to the chewy cubes of caramel themselves – are all presented. There’s a bitter wheat element that comes with this sweetness, but it grounds the flavors from becoming overbearing. It sits heavy on the palate as well, much like the aforementioned plummy gooeyness on the nose. The heat of the alcohol finally kicks in at the back of the palate in a single rush, but it doesn’t burn – just wants to be acknowledged.

In the midst of the caramel and warmth, are poached figs and pears, doused in another light caramel. Again, there’s some bitterness, but the accompanying warmth makes it all seem purposeful. There are even cherries to chase back the fig and pear. A Kentucky chew absolutely burns the palate, awakening cinnamon and black pepper, with the cherry as well as an alligator-charred oak. Exquisite.

FINISH:

– Lasting Power: Exceptionally long. I can feel the heat at the back of my palate linger long after the sip is gone. It’s certainly another enjoyable aspect of this bourbon.
– Between Sips: I can find a hint of cherries between sips; however, the predominant flavor comes from wood chips, soaked in water and incredibly chewy.

– No More: This grows in depth and complexity the further into the glass I get. Each sip brings out more darkness in flavors, especially the sugars. It’s truly a treat to the palate that is looking for a rich texture of sweetness.

The empty Glencairn is a spicy oak with more of that black pepper and cinnamon from the palate. A great finish to a pretty great bourbon.

WORTH THE PRICE?

I like to think I remained objective in my review and kept the story to the back of my mind, as it is an emotionally driven bourbon with its marketing. Nevertheless, I find that Horse Soldier offers a wide variety of flavors. At least one is sure to impress any preferred flavor profile. It’s a wheater that stands apart from the crowd, whether you’re talking about proof or distillery (Heaven Hill’s Larceny Barrel Proof’s are perhaps the most analogous at this time). Do I think it’s worth $65? All day. If I lived in Montana, this would be a bottle I’d endeavor to keep in the bunker at all times.

HORSE SOLDIER RESERVE REVIEW RATING: 93/100

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